It wouldn’t be a long shot to call Burberry’s Autumn/Winter 2023 show the most anticipated of London Fashion Week’s extravaganza. Monday evening brought us Daniel Lee’s debut show as the British fashion house’s newly appointed chief creative officer. Paying homage to the house’s codes, from the renowned trench to the distinguished check, the subtle signature details were dotted across the collection with a fresh standpoint. Marking the reinstatement of a British designer in the realm of Burberry, stakes were high as one of the last independent houses to fully embody British fashion.
Daniel Lee, Courtesy of British Vogue
Recognised for resurrecting the Italian house Bottega Veneta through ground-breaking accessories, Lee has returned to his British routes (originally from Bradford) through his new appointment. Following in the footsteps of some of the most renowned designers. He is taking over from Italian creative director, Riccardo Tisci who held the spot since 2018, following Christopher Bailey, the British designer who is credited with transforming the fashion house back in 2014. So, are you all caught up? Here are five stand-out facts to give you the rundown of this runway…
1. The Front Row was A-List Packed
Bailey sat front row among many other respected industry insiders and A-list celebrities. Including Vogue’s own Anna Wintour and British Vogue’s Editor-In-Chief, Edward Enninful, while bringing forth the Brits through his celebrity-packed front row. You could find actress Jodie Comer and model Rosie-Whitley Huntley to Stormzy and Blur's Damon Albarn. Set in an airy, brightly lit tent, guests walked into a mystery with no show notes, and instead found themselves signature-checked blankets and hot water bottles.
2. The Theme was British, British and more British
The show centred around the outdoors and bringing forward the house’s heritage through Lee’s millennial vision. British countryside ran through the collection throughout Burberry’s staple styles, reinventing the check and more. From the use of faux fur keychains and mallard-shaped caps, to a subtle nod to the English rose through outerwear and dress prints. Lee cleverly combined his take on the house’s codes while bringing the house's significant British background to our focus. Paying tribute to Thomas Burberry the founder, who in 1856 started the fashion house in order to protect British people from the well-known and embraced rainy weather through the practical outdoor focused designs.
3. Checks Are Bolder Than Ever
The collection brought a whole new boast of intricate detailing, from bold graphic prints to inventive necklines. The silhouettes embodied an oversized and draped feel exploring high cowl necks and oversized collars. The house’s iconic check print took centre stage in bright royal blues and mustard yellows running throughout key pieces. Functionality and fun came together through a practical and clashing colourway of a collection.
Courtesy of Elle
4. The Equestrian Knight Device Symbolised a New Beginning
The Equestrian Knight logo was displayed throughout the collection following Lee’s re-introduction of the historic design as part of the re-branding strategy ahead of the show. First introduced back in 1901, when Burberry ran a design competition for a new logo, the winning entrant was originally inspired by 13th and 14th-century armour representing honour. The blue adaptation was spotted on multiple garments across the runway.
5. Accessories are taking Centre Stage
Unsurprisingly, accessories were a core part of Lee’s strategy, following his reputation from Bottega Veneta. Presenting a showcase of bags in an array of sizes from slouchy shoulder pieces to mini crossbodies, as were all wondering if one may become the latest it-bag. Not forgetting the conflicting collection of footwear, from practical wellington boots to faux fur trimmed thong sandals. Could Burberry be venturing into dominating the accessories market?
Courtesy of Vogue Business & Tatler
You can watch the whole show here:
All images used in this blog are either copyright free or rightfully credited. Sources can be accessed via the link below each image.
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